Biopeptide CL™


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Peptides are short chains of amino acids. Amino acids are the basic building blocks of proteins and many other different types of organic molecules. Peptides are frequently created by the digestion of proteins in the body, and many types of peptides are readily and rapidly absorbed by the bloodstream. For this reason, peptides are particularly effective as skin care ingredients.



Biopeptide CL™

A Messenger Peptide for Collagen Renewal

Function & Characteristics: Anti-Wrinkle, Hydroglycolic solution of Palmitoyl – Gly – His – Lys. GHK is a matrikine, a peptide messenger notably involved in the process of cutaneous repair. GHK is a tripeptide fragment of the collagen chain.

Cosmetics Interest: Stimulates collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. Reinforces the epidermis and diminishes wrinkles.

Properties: BIOPEPTIDE CL stimulates collagen (as demonstrated in vitro and ex vivo) and glycosaminoglycan synthesis; its activity stands comparison with Retinoic Acid and is thus recommended for the restructuration of dermal matrix (firming and anti-wrinkle action). Thanks to protein and glycan neosynthesis, skin grows thicker and firmer while wrinkles become smoother and less visible. The production of extracellular matrix also protects skin against UV rays.

Applications: Anti-Ageing gels and emulsions. Anti-Wrinkle skin care and makeup products.

Formulation: Water soluble. Incorporate into Emulsion Bases at 45°C and Gel Bases at room temperature.

Recommended Use Levels: 2% -5%


Glyceryl Polymethacrylate: Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is a mixture of Glycerin and Polymethacrylic Acid. Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is a film-forming agent that creates a protective barrier on the skin and reduces water loss. This keeps skin moisturized and soft. It also enhances both the texture, application and skin feel of a product thanks to its smooth finish.
Propylene Glycol: An organic compound. In cosmetics, PG is commonly used to emulsify oil components with water-based components. It also helps cosmetic items from melting in high heat and freezing in low temperatures.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide: This synthetic peptide (meaning it is man-made) consists of the amino acids glycine, glutamine, proline and arginine. Palmitoyl oligopeptide is actually a fragment of collagen that is attached to palmitic acid, which makes it more stable while also enhancing its ability to bind to human skin. The main function of palmitoyl oligopeptide is the restructuring of cutaneous, or skin, tissues. When the synthesis of these proteins is stimulated, the effect is smoother, wrinkle-free, rejuvenated-looking skin.


  • Appearance: Opalescent Gel
  • Color: Colorless
  • Odor: Characteristic
  • PH: 4 – 6
  • Refractive Index (25°C): 1.420 – 1.440
  • Water Content (K. Fisher): 22 – 28%
  • Pal GHK Content (HPLC): 100 – 120 ppm
  • Bacteria: < 100 germs/g
  • Yeast and Molds: < 10 germs/g

Claim Substantiation

Sederma Yvelinescandex France

In Vitro Tests

Synthesis of Matrix Macromolecules

Human fibroblasts are put in culture in the presence of BIOPEPTIDE CL. An assessment is taken of the stimulation of the synthesis of matrix macromolecules in comparison with the untreated control.

Stimulation of Collagen Synthesis: +350%

Stimulation of Gene Expression

Study of the regulation of dermal and epidermal genes in the presence of BIOPEPTIDE CL using DNA-array technique on reconstructed epidermis and on fibroblast culture.

Stimulation of Glycosaminoglycan Synthesis: +146%
The gene activation profile regroups genes favoring cell migration, the reshaping of the extracellular matrix and factors of cell multiplication, all involved in cutaneous restructuration.

Ex Vivo Tests


The skin is subjected to a radiation UVA (2,7 J/cm²/ 5 min) then an application of product 5 times over a week. By taking a biopsy sample, a histological study is carried out on the quantification of collagen. The treatment is continued over a second week without UVA radiation. Further biopsy samples are then taken.

BIOPEPTIDE CL has a protective and repairing effect similar to Retinoic Acid. 9 volunteers / 2 weeks / UVA irradiation during the first week / Application of products containing 5% BIOPEPTIDE CL or 0.05% Retinoic Acid / biopsies.

Effect of BIOPEPTIDE CL on collagen quantity and skin thickness compared to Retinoic Acid
After 1 Week
After 2 Weeks
Collagen Protection/Control
Quality of Collagen/Control
Retinoic Acid
Biopeptide CL

Protecting effect

This study shows that a treatment with BIOPEPTIDE CL protects dermal collagen like Retinoic Acid (Vitamin A). Both molecules strongly decreased UV-induced collagen degradation.

Repairing effect

1 week later, one notices an increase in the amount of dermal collagen (+10% for the 2 products) and in epidermal thickness.

In Vivo Tests

Increase in the Thickness of the Epidermis

23 volunteers / 28 days / application of a cream containing 4% BIOPEPTIDE CL or placebo / Ultrasound measurement of skin thickness.

Anti-wrinkle effect

15 volunteers / 28 days / twice daily application of a cream containing 3% BIOPEPTIDE CL or placebo to the crow’s feet area / Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy by print analysis.Chart showing a wrinkle lessen its depth
Reinforcement of The Epidermis and Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy
Average Variations
Max Variations
Length of Deep Wrinkles
Depth of Wrinkles
* Significant / placebo : p < 0.05 ** Significant / placebo : p < 0.01

Including Peptides and Actives is a great way to customize your own skin care line

We’ve all seen specialty serums, face and night creams with prices ranging anywhere from $70.00 to $100.00 or more for a 1/2 oz jar. What makes them so special? Great packaging and aggressive marketing work wonders, but the main thing that makes these products stand out from the rest is the use of Peptides and/or actives.

We at EBC are well aware that Peptides are among the most intriguing and sought-after skin care ingredients used in successful anti-wrinkle products today. Here we offer you BIOPEPTIDE CL™ a patented formulation (FR 2 668 365-FR 2 802 413-WO 01/43701) from Sederma formulated in France.

But what are peptides? What do peptides do that other skin care ingredients don’t do?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids. Amino acids are the basic building blocks of proteins and many other different types of organic molecules. Peptides are frequently created by the digestion of proteins in the body, and many types of peptides are readily and rapidly absorbed by the bloodstream. For this reason, peptides are particularly effective as skin care ingredients.

Many peptides work as hormones, neurotransmitters and as natural pain relievers.

What do peptides do?

Different peptides have different effects. Peptides are a widely variable group of molecules, so speaking generally about the function of peptides is meaningless. Simply, there are four powerful peptides used in skin care products: acetyl hexapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl oligopeptide and copper peptides. Here we will briefly discuss the function of palmitoyl oligopeptide which is the peptide in BIOPEPTIDE CL™.

Palmitoyl oligopeptide: This peptide stimulates the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the deep layers of the skin. In addition, palmitoyl oligopeptide has a mild UV protection effect, thus helping to protect the skin from damage.

NOTE: It is still recommended that you use a sun block with an actual SPF every day. Additionally, although this peptide has demonstrated a mild UV protection effect, it makes no claims to an actual SPF rating. Therefore an SPF rating cannot be claimed unless you hold an OTC license and have gone through the proper clinical studies to obtain the SPF rating.

How do I use it?

As stated in the studies above add directly to your emulsions (lotion and creams, etc) at 45°C and into gels at room temperature. Use at a level of 2%-5%.

Looking for the ultimate combination of Biopeptides that will restructure the dermal matrix causing firming and anti-wrinkle action while increasing suppleness. A combination of both Biopeptide CL (collagen) and Biopeptide EL (elastin) will boost results considerably! Both are available here at Essentials By Catalina.

BIOPEPTIDE CL ™ is sold by weight in gel liquid form.

Additional information



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Special Note

Non-Warranty The information in this publication is given in good faith by Sederma, Essentials By Catalina and/or Maki Creations, Inc. (the companies)by way of general guidance and for reference purposes only. The information should not be construed as granting a license to practice any methods or compositions of matter covered by patents. The companies assume no liability in relation to the information and gives no warranty regarding the suitability of the product and/or ingredients described for a particular use. The use made of the product and/or ingredients described by the recipient and any claims or representations made by the recipient in respect of such product and/or ingredients are the responsibility of the recipient. The recipient is solely responsible for ensuring that products marketed to consumers comply with all relevant laws and regulations. The companies are not responsible for product compatibility. We encourage everyone to beta test in controlled quantities prior to committing to larger quantities. It gives you a chance to test the product for product performance, compatibility and safety in regards to containers, applicators, closures and reactivity to other ingredients.


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